Sunday, June 10, 2007

Corsica

My parents were our last visitors here in France. They came for two weeks, and we spent the middle ten days on a trip to Corsica and the south of France. Before moving here, I didn't know much about Corsica. It's an island that's been a Region of France for a couple of hundred years. Napoleon is the most famous Corsican. It's a popular vacation destination spot for the mainland French, but since most of them can't go on vacation until July when their kids are out of school, we enjoyed fewer crowds and cheaper hotel rates. We decided to get there by an overnight ferry (a bit like a mini-cruise ship), arriving in Porto-Vecchio in the southeast and departing from Ajaccio in the west. In between, we stayed at Bonifacio at the extreme south and Sartene, a village in the interior of the island known as the "most Corsican of Corsican villages".

Our ferry departed late in the day from Marseille, so we took the day to see some of Provence on the way.



We drove through Roussillon, which is famous for it's many shades of ochre, which were once mined and used as painting pigments.



As well as Gordes, which the girls and I had seen before.



We finally made it down to the dock an hour or so before the ferry was scheduled to leave, and after driving onto the boat, the girls were eager to get to our rooms. Their favorite thing was playing on the bunk beds.



But we finally got them to go up on deck to catch some of Marseille as we departed.



We got into Porto-Vecchio around 8:30am, and after a standard breakfast of pain au chocolat and coffee, we drove south twenty minutes to one of Corsica's most famous beaches, Palombaggia. It was the prettiest beach that any of us had ever seen. The girls couldn't wait to get into the water, even though it was freezing!



We knew the water would be cold, so we bought them some shortie wet-suits to wear before leaving.



But there were quite a few jellyfish in the water, so they spent more time playing in the sand.



And since it was her birthday, making Allison a cake.



On the way back from the beach, we got a rare picture of the four of us where we stopped for lunch.



According to our guidebooks, over the last few years, a lot of small adventure parks have opened up all over the island. The basic idea is that with the minimal amount of safety gear required, you traverse between trees on bridges made of various combinations of rope and wooden planks and zip lines. We stopped by one that had been closed down (or perhaps not yet open this season), so Summer could play some. She loves this kind of thing and already has plans for what we have to build in our backyard once we get home.



It was unbelievable how dangerous some of this stuff was. There were wooden platforms attached to trees that were thirty feet up in the air. A place like this wouldn't stay open long in the lawsuit-happy US.

That night for her birthday, Allison and I went to dinner alone (a rare treat). The food was excellent, but perhaps the most memorable thing was watching the moon rise from behind a mountain across the Porto-Vecchio bay.

The next day we drove down to Bonifacio on the straightest highway in Corisca and stopped off to see an another amazing beach.



Bonifacio is split into two parts.



The lower part (where we stayed) surrounds a harbor and mainly includes hotels and restaurants.



We rode a small train up to the upper part, where we walked around their charming, narrow streets.



Everyone we talked to and all of our guide books mentioned that a boat trip around Bonifacio was a must. We were also told that the sea can get rough when it's windy. The wind was blowing hard the first day, so we decided to wait until the next day to go. But it was blowing even harder, so only my dad and I, the two least prone to motion sickness, took the tour. It was certinly impressive but thirty minutes into the hour tour, my stomach was ready for it to be over. Among the sites, we saw a lookout used by the German's during WW II.



And Bonifacio itself perched high on the cliffs.



After a rainy day in Sartene, we drove to our final destination, Corsica's capital, Ajaccio, where we found a lot more for the girls to do. We took them to Cupulatta, which is a huge turtle sanctuary with thousands of turtles, including one that was upside-down. He struggled for a few minutes before we found a stick long enough to flip him back over. Once we flipped him over, he was so exhausted from trying to right himself that he couldn't even stand up.



And Summer finally got to do the one thing she wanted most of all, riding a pony. It's something that we'd promised her before we left, but many places weren't open yet or not open on the days we were there. Finally, she was able to join a class with kids who came weekly to a riding center to take lessons. Being in a class was a much better experience than just sitting on a pony walking along a dirt path, which was the option at another place.



She almost fell off when her pony started to trot, but her teacher caught her just in time.



And kept a closer eye on her for the rest of the hour.



There are 91 watchtowers that line Corsica's coast. They were built in the early fifteenth century to counteract the growing number of pirate attacks; the network of watchtowers could alert the whole island of an attack in under an hour. Along the way, we saw a few in the distance from the car, but the only one that we got near was at the far end of the Ajaccio peninsula. Past the one at the end of the main island, you can see another one in the distance on the Iles Sanguinaires along with a more modern lighthouse.



From the base of the watchtower, we had the best view so far on the island.



That night we took the ferry back to mainland France. In the morning, we first drove to Cannes (Allison hoped to see some celebrities and dreamed of getting a picture holding Suri Cruise), and then ended up taking a gorgeous drive along the coast until we reached Agay where we stayed in a nice hotel right on the beach with a great restaurant.



The day before we drove back home to Barraux, we took the girls to Marine Land, which is pretty similar to Sea World.



Marine Land is part of a group of four other parks, including La Petite Ferme du Far West, for which we bought a combined pass. The girls had the most fun of the whole trip here. They chased around farm animals, played on a huge inflatible structure, rode mechanical horses, little boats, got their faces painted



rode ponies,



and played with fun house mirrors for the first time.



The next day we headed back home. With each girl watching DVDs, the five hour trip went smoothly.



Overall, it was a great vacation, and we couldn't have done it without my parents who did so much to keep the girls entertained with much less sleep than they normally get.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Fraises

There are a few strawberry plants in the backyard, and today there were a few ripe strawberries that Summer couldn't wait to pick. After we brought them inside, we waited for Allison to finish putting Samantha down for a nap before we tried them. For ten minutes, Summer insisted that one of us had to watch them at all times. Luckily, we each got to try one before they ran away. They were tart but still good.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Spelling Lessons and Crazy Hair

It has been rainy and cold here all week, so we have been having many pajama days. This sounds fun, and it is for a while, but after being in the house for two days straight and getting a bit stir crazy, we have been struggling with finding fun and time-consuming things to do. The girls have become big buddies over the past few months, and Samantha loves to follow Summer around and be her student, baby, pet kitty, emergency room patient, and various animals needing rescuing. We got out the chalkboard, and Summer instantly became the teacher. It surprises me how long Samantha will sit and listen to her.



We also decided to play beauty shop to display our wide assortment of clips and hair bows. The girls did my hair, too, but it wasn't quite as cute as theirs.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Donkey

Today we went to a small park near my work that had a couple of goats, some chickens, a peacock, and the girls' favorite, a donkey.



(By the way, I took a picture of a bunch of flies eating crusty stuff out of the donkey's eye, but Allison won't let me put it up).

Saturday, May 5, 2007

Les Grottes de Choranche

It's been rainy here for the last couple of days, so I decided to take the girls to Les Grottes de Choranche, which is a series of caverns about an hour from Grenoble. We showed up between two larger groups of people, so we got a private tour from a guide who spoke simple enough French for me to understand most of what he was saying. The most interesting thing I remember is that the caverns continue on for 30km. The inside was impressive, especially since there was a lot of moving water. The pictures don't do it justice.





There's not much to do around Grenoble when it's raining, so I was pretty proud of myself for thinking to go visit the caverns. But it turns out the water levels in the cave are affected by rain that somehow drains through the mountain. A few small sections of the caves were already closed, and the guide told us that it would probably all be closed in the afternoon. So I wasn't so smart after all.

The tour climaxes with the guide leading you up some stairs into a dark chamber. He then cues up a choreography of music and lights that gradually reveal the impressive structures and a cascading river that comes out of no where. It's all a bit cheesy, but it's hard not to get sucked in by it.

Friday, May 4, 2007

Chateau du Miolans

We took the girls to visit a castle about thirty minutes from our house, le Chateau du Miolans. On the way there, we heard Samantha in the back seat talking about baby Eiffel Towers, and then we looked outside:



We went on a rainy Friday morning, so we had the whole castle to ourselves, which made it very enjoyable. Summer had a lot of fun exploring, but eventually her standard response after going through a new doorway was, "It's just another dirty old room."

Friday, April 27, 2007

Dressed to Kill

We've had a big problem with wasps here recently. They make nests under the roof tiles, which are very hard to get rid of. Even when we leave the windows shut, they find a way to get inside. We've killed at least a dozen in the house. And despite this being quite thrilling, I decided to go up on the roof with every can of wasp spray they had at both grocery stores in Pontcharra (three by the way) and kill me some wasps. I was stung by a bee a few days ago, so I went a bit overboard with protection.



No more wasps in the house so far.